12 of the best restaurants in Varanasi, India: where to eat in "The City of Shiva"

Breakfast, lunch, or dinner — I’ve got all your meals covered in this guide of the best restaurants in Varanasi, India.

Varanasi is first and foremost a place of pilgrimage for Hindu people in India, but for foodies, it’s a narrow maze of restaurants and tea stalls waiting to be salivated over. Varanasi is filled with tiny eateries that offer signature street food and classic Indian cuisine. The number of dining options in Varanasi took me completely by surprise, but I made it my mission to eat at as many of them as possible in the name of blog “research.”

We well and truly threw ourselves into the deep end of India by starting in Delhi and heading straight over to this Hindu holy city. Varanasi is a wild mix of calm cafés and shocking city sights. The overwhelm of ancient Varanasi is comparable to that of Delhi, which is why I wouldn’t suggest Varanasi as your inaugural destination in India. However, while there were many chaotic moments spent trying to navigate around cows and motorbikes, I will admit by the end of my time in Varanasi I had found my favourite bohemian bakeries and street stands. I became a frequenter of specific eateries in the early hours of the day, and now have a fond association with Varanasi and delicious baked goods.

how to get to varanasi ↴

Varanasi is located in northern India in Uttar Pradesh state. The city is serviced by an airport with daily flights arriving from other major Indian cities like Delhi and Mumbai. Varanasi is also connected by bus to major cities of Uttar Pradesh, as well as neighbouring states by state-run buses. You can pay more for private air-conditioned buses.

The most common way tourists get to Varanasi is by using India’s railway system. Train journeys can take days depending on where you are coming from, but this is the most affordable way to get to Varanasi and a train journey is a part of the quintessential India travel experience. From (any of the three) Varanasi railway stations, travellers can use Uber or hire a taxi from one of the kiosks in the station to get into the city center.

how to get around varanasi ↴

Getting around Varanasi on foot is relatively easy in terms of distance from one thing to another, but don’t expect sidewalk infrastructure. Traffic and incessant honking from motorists can make walking feel like more of a journey than it actually is, but once you get into the alleyways and start strolling the side streets, it gets much less hectic. Walking is a great way to stumble upon things you might otherwise miss.

Uber Rickshaw is your other best option. If you have the Uber app, you can simply select the rickshaw options available to get from one place to another. This works to get you from one general area to another, but please note that many of the restaurants in this post will require you to walk through a narrow lane or two to get to where you’re going. Using Uber Rickshaw means you don’t have to haggle with drivers, which means it’s not only the cheapest it’s also a time saver.

If you’re a master negotiator or you can’t get a rickshaw via the Uber app, you can rest assured there are hundreds of rickshaws lining Varanasi’s streets waiting for patrons to hitch a ride. We found that you can get most anywhere in Varanasi for roughly 100 rupees, with exception of the airport, which is roughly 30 minutes away.

what to expect in varanasi ↴

Considered the holiest city by Hindus, Varanasi is a place where many wish to die. It’s believed that dying here ends the cycle of reincarnation for humans. Because of this, compounded with its cremation ceremony traditions, Varanasi is often referred to as the “City of Death”. While it is a spiritually significant city for Hindu people, you shouldn’t expect the city to be calm or quiet. It is a busy place with an estimated 4 million people (85% of whom are Hindu) living throughout the district.

Besides a general business and the overwhelm you can expect everywhere in India, in Varanasi you can also expect:

COWS | There are a lot of cows in Varanasi. Like…so many cows. I cannot understate the abundance of cows. Cows are sacred animals in the Hindu religion, so it makes sense that there would be a number of them in the holiest city. Krishna, a central Hindu deity, is often portrayed as a cowherd. There’s no escaping them, or their shit. Every step you take, down every street, you will have to watch out for piles of cow poo. Be sure to also give the cows you come across space, as they have been known to get spooked and charge.
GOATS | Along the river near the ghats are herds of goats, and they will urinate wherever they are. Watch your feet and maybe avoid sandals when you visit this area of the city.
MONKEYS | Watch your things and try to not carry fragrant food on you. These sneaky (and, frankly, filthy) creatures can be found sorting through trash, walking across power lines, and scavenging for food.
DEAD BODIES | I genuinely thought I was prepared for dead bodies, but the sights in Varanasi truly shook me a bit. Maybe it was the combination of death all around me in the same space as child beggars, snake charmers, and giant cows. I can’t be sure, but if dead bodies (albeit wrapped in cloth) make you queasy, Varanasi probably isn’t a city for you.
DOGS | I immediately noticed the number of stray dogs in Varanasi. They’re everywhere and the puppies are especially hard to not pet, but you should try to avoid contact with them if you can for two important reasons (I promise, I’m not heartless. I actually love dogs). 1) They are known for carrying fleas and worms, neither of which you’ll want to deal with on your trip. 2) Many of the dogs are injured or have suffered abuse, so touching them might be painful and cause them to snap at you. If you are bitten by one of the street dogs in Varanasi, you need to seek medical attention immediately.
PAAN + SPIT | The red liquid you see being spat all over the streets is a substance called Paan. Paan, made from areca nuts, is chewed for its stimulant and narcotic effects. Essentially, it’s a form of chewing tobacco. Be mindful of men spitting and watch where you step.
NO ALCOHOL | Varanasi being a holy city means that alcohol is strictly prohibited. We actually saw people at the airport on their way to Varanasi who were turned away by security for trying to bring in Duty-Free liquor. Don’t expect Varanasi to be a party destination and don’t expect to find alcoholic beverages on menus at restaurants in the city.
SNAKE CHARMERS | Snake charming was actually outlawed in India in 1972 as part of a wildlife protection act, but these men do it to continue the centuries-old tradition. If you see a man in a turban walking around carrying a rattan box and a wooden flute, chances are there is a snake in the box and they will attempt to make you pay for photos. If you aren’t keen on pictures, it’s best to walk away. Be assertive if you have to!

bread of life bakery and resturant Varanasi

tips for avoiding delhi belly ↴

“Delhi Belly” (traveller’s diarrhoea) and food poisoning are likely at some point during your trip to India. Symptoms include cramping, nausea, fever, headache, bloating, and severe diarrhoea. It shows up because of food-borne or water-borne bacteria and usually lasts no more than 24-48 hours. Food poisoning is a bit more severe and usually includes bouts of vomiting.

There’s no foolproof way to completely avoid getting sick while travelling, but there are measures that you can take to mitigate your risk.

don’t drink tap water | Tap water is not potable in India, so use a Grayl or LifeStraw water bottle to filter water. This helps guarantee that you have clean drinking water and a protected stomach.
avoid ice in drinks | India can be indescribably hot, but having ice in your drink can lead to illness. Grab cold drinks from a refrigerator, but avoid having anything with ice added to it if possible.
avoid meat + dairy | India has some of the best vegan food in the world, so it’s unlikely that you’ll even miss meat and dairy, two products that are often the source of food-borne illnesses.
wash your hands | There are often wash basins or stand-alone sinks in restaurants, and you should make use of them to wash your hands before and after you eat.
take a probiotic | In preparation for your trip, it’s recommended that you take a probiotic regularly to improve your gut health.

7 must-try foods in varanasi ↴

Indian cuisine is flavourful, filling, and immensely diverse from region to region. The variety of food available across India makes every meal feel like a foodie adventure. Varanasi has a bevvy of signature street food and Northern Indian classics just waiting for you to try!

LASSI | Often referred to as “Varanasi Lassi”, lassi here is unique to other parts of India. In Varanasi, it’s considered more of a dessert drink prepared with extra sugar. You’ll often find lassi prepared with saffron, chopped pistachios, and dried rose petals. Some lassi stalls have signature flavours like butterscotch.
KACHOR SABOZI | Varanasi’s classic breakfast is Kachor Sabozi. This staple of the Varanasi diet has a crispy outer shell and a filling comprised of potatoes, chilli peppers, cloves, coriander, and lentils.
CHOTI KACHORI | There are two types of kachoris served throughout Varanasi: badi kachori and choti kachori. Typical kachoris are made with lentils, while choti kachoris are stuffed with a spicy potato mix. These can be found at most street stalls throughout the city and are the perfect quick bite for travellers looking to ward off hunger pangs.
CHOORA MATAR | If you happen to visit Varanasi in the wintertime, you’ll likely see choora matar for sale at street food stalls lining every major road. This cold-weather treat is made with rice, ghee, cashews, and a mixture of spices. Locals like to enjoy choora matar with hot tea or coffee in the evening when the temperatures dip.
BAATI CHOKHA | This tasty snack is Varanasi’s version of dal baati (often found in Rajasthan). Round baatis are made of flour dough and stuffed with a masala, potato, and ginger filling. They often have a charcoal flavour, since they are cooked on the grill over a fire.
CHENA DAHI VADA | Chena dahi vada is a must-try when in Varanasi. It’s the local variation of daal vada. Cottage cheese, potatoes, cornflour, and ginger are mixed together and deep-fried in oil. The deep-fried balls are then topped with sweet curd and coriander. Sometimes, they’ll be topped with a stall-specific chutney. Locals enjoy chena dahi vada for breakfast, but tourists tend to enjoy it as a midday snack.
LAUNGLATA | Launglata is insanely sweet! You can find it in sweet shops along the main roads throughout the year, even though it’s traditionally enjoyed during Holi. Maida (a crispy covering made of flour) is filled with saffron, nuts, and cardamom, soaked in sugar and deep-fried in ghee. The deep-fried balls are then coated once again in sugar and served hot. It’s said that royals throughout India used to eat these with every meal as a sign of decadence.

the 12 best places to eat in varanasi ↴

Blue Lassi

Famed for its incredibly tasty lassi, this tiny little local haunt is located near one of the main Ghats on the Ganges River. Blue Lassi may just be the most well-known dining establishment in all of Varanasi. In fact, to many it’s considered something of a landmark institution. The bright blue walls of Blue Lassi are slathered with passport photos of those who have visited. Bring a spare passport photo of your own to add to the café’s collection.

Brown Bread Bakery

Brown Bread Bakery prides itself on being Varanasi’s first organic bakery, with branches in Varanasi and Delhi. BBB supports the Learn for Life project, a grassroots organization that funds education for impoverished children and provides fair working conditions and dignified wages for its staff. Brown Bread Bakery is possibly most well-known for its breakfast buffet. For 350 rupees per person, you can indulge in a bottomless buffet of bread and baked goods. BBB has vegan and gluten-free options, but please note that it may not be celiac-safe.

Café Café Varanasi

Café Café Varanasi is a calm oasis in the middle of one of Varanasi’s busiest streets. The window seats are ideal for observing the scenes outside, and the coffee here is good. The pancakes on the menu are delicious, though they’re less like fluffy American pancakes and more like French flat crepes.

Canton Royale Restaurant

An upscale dining experience frequented by foreign tour groups, Canton Royale is definitely different from the other recommendations on this list. I’ll be honest, the food at Canton left me wanting, but the elegant decor and colonial ambience of the restaurant made dinner feel a touch fancier. There’s a mix of Chinese and Indian food on the menu, but again, the food itself is a little “meh.” Go here for group dining in a beautiful heritage space, but maybe don’t come with the highest of expectations in terms of taste.

Mona Lisa + the German Bakery

The German Bakery is a fave amongst western tourists. Located directly across the narrow alleyway from Brown Bread Bakery, this multi-level café has an eclectic menu of pizzas, cinnamon rolls, apple pie, and Indian classics. The German Bakery’s rooftop is a lovely way to view the city from above while enjoying your meal, and it’s a popular place for digital nomads to work thanks to its strong, free WiFi.

Wife on Leave

If you’re willing to pay a little more for food, Wife on Leave is an ambient restaurant serving up a menu of vegan and vegetarian-friendly offerings including biryanis, kebabs, and tandoori mushrooms. Mezze platters, pizzas, and quesadillas are just a few of the unexpected menu entries that we had to pick between. In the end, we opted for Indian dishes since we figured that’s what the kitchen would do best. The real stars of the menu here were the shakes! We ordered two not knowing what to expect, and before we knew it two decadent chocolate fudge shakes topped with whipped cream and oreo cookies arrived in massive glass mugs to our table.

Terracotta Café

Terracotta Café is a Varanasi rooftop eatery with a very bohemian vibe. Their cake and muffin selection is top-tier, and they offer a variety of omelette and curry options. Coffees, smoothies, and fresh juices are also available. Without question though, my favourite thing on their menu was their homemade spiced carrot cake, which was served warm with butter. Washed down with an iced Americano, the cake was a perfect treat. What I liked best about Terracotta Café was the friendliness of the staff, the strength of the WiFi, and the affordable prices of the quality food served.

New Bread of Life

New Bread of Life is a foreigner favourite in Varanasi, and deservedly so. The restaurant serves Indian, western, and Chinese cuisine from an extensive menu. The staff are remarkably friendly and used to English-speaking customers, making the dining experience genuinely nice overall. New Bread of Life serves western breakfast and locally famous hot chocolates sure to satisfy even the hungriest of travellers.

Varanasi Diljeet Café

Hidden away in the maze of Varanasi’s alleyways, this locally-owned café and its two watchful dogs are waiting to feed you. The rooftop of Varanasi Diljeet Café gives way to the quintessential views of kites being flown across the skyline of the city. Diljeet Café is a cash-only establishment.

Pizzeria Vaatika Café

Pizzeria Vaatika Café is located along Assi Ghat in perfect view of the river. Established in 1992, Pizzeria Vaatika claims to be the first of its kind in India! It’s a tad pricier than other eateries in the area, but Vaatika’s reputation for serving large portions of pizza and pasta to hungry travellers in Varanasi for years is a testament to the quality of its food. Don’t miss the apple pie and ice cream for dessert— it’s a delicious way to finish off lunch.

The Baranas Rasoi

At first, walking through a hall of dusty motorbikes had me worried about what we were getting ourselves into. This was a restaurant, right? We were seated at our table in a room where every wall was decorated with a different pattern of wallpaper, and a (relatively rude) server came over and took our orders. Luke and I each had a special, which meant we were getting a curry, naan, and a drink for 250 rupees each. When the food arrived, the portions were heaping. Another member of the wait staff set our plates and cutlery in front of us, while another member of the staff poured us water. It felt like a whole production. The food itself (daal makhani, mixed vegetable curry, and garlic naan) was absolutely delicious, and I’m still dreaming about the puffy naan.

Ondo Korean Food

I’m sure I’ll get flack. in the comments for mentioning the Korean food in India, but it’s worth noting that the owners of Ondo were some of the nicest people we met in Varanasi. The restaurant was also relatively clean, hidden away from the chaotic honking motorbikes. Ondo is a great option for a satiating breakfast (their banana chocolate pancakes are 👌), though I felt like their daily vegetarian menu was a little lacking.