I pull another leech off my leg as Lan, my guide, sprays it with a lemongrass and water mixture he carried in a fanny pack. “You just donated blood to nature,” he says, laughing. I’m unbothered by the little leech. I’m walking in the jungle of Laos on a day when the heat isn’t insufferable…next to elephants. And all thanks to the conservation efforts of Mandalao.

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